Gold is the classic rich, warm color that has been used for centuries to create pieces of value and it can be alloyed with other metals to make yellow, white, green, rose and and even more exotic colors. Gold is suitable for most fine jewelry applications and is formulated in different karats. The higher the karat weight, the higher the gold content and the heavier the gold is. Except for White gold, higher karat also meansan alloy will be softer and more malleable.
In all colors except white, we prefer 18kt (.750 fineness) gold for it’s richness of color and resistance to oxidation over a lifetime of wear. The finest and whitest gold alloy is a 14kt alloy we use (x-1 from Stuller Settings). It provides the ‘best of all worlds’ in that it is more than half gold content (58.3% minimum), durable, whiter, less prone to cracking and is more affordable than the higher karat white golds. 18kt and higher white gold is especially hard (and therefore prone to cracking) and should be used with caution on lighter weight pieces.
White gold is created by mixing Nickel & Gold, creating a harder, and more durable alloy than other gold colors, or Palladium & Gold, which makes for a tough, darker grey alloy. It is a very popular jewelry metal due to its hardness and it holds a shine better than platinum or palladium as they will both develp a matte patina over time.
The most common white gold we use is very white, especially durable, and has passed the stringent European nickel release standards.
Occasionally, however nickel sensitivity will make nickel based white gold inappropriate for some individuals, so if nickel based white gold is not for you, we offer Platinum 950 and Palladium 950 as well as the Palladium white gold alloys (White gold made with palladium as the secondary metal instead of nickel.